Accessing the Maasai Mara

Masai Mara is located 270 km west of Nairobi, at a remote southwestern corner of the country, right at the edge of the Tanzanian border. The fact that there is no major road to the reserve, joined to Masai Mara's geography itself, split into two by the river, makes it advisable to study the route for each particular situation. The optimal way for each case will depend not only on the place of departure, but on the destination as well, whether it lies outside or inside the reserve, and in the latter case, whether at the eastern or western sector.

The Map

Map Courtesy of Jeremy Youngman

Air Kenya offers two scheduled flights daily from Wilson Airport in Nairobi. The trip lasts a mere 45 minutes, for the six hours plus that the road traveller will bear, obligatorily in a 4WD vehicle. Not to talk about buses, which only cover the distance to the town of Narok.

The following paragraphs attempt to synthesize the diverse options for accessing Masai Mara according to the place of departure. Most of the routes converge in the B3 road, which runs east-west parallel to the Tanzanian border and is the starting point for several tracks down to the reserve. Afterwards, and so that you can make up your mind as to what is your best bet, I will make an overview of the road communications within the reserve and the routes connecting both sectors.

From Nairobi:

It will take you some six hours just to the eastern side of the reserve, to which you should add -if this is your case- the driving time within the limits. In Nairobi, take the A104 road toward Naivasha and Nakuru. After passing the Kikuyu Escarpment, holding your breath with the Rift Valley views and descending to the bed of Kedong Valley, at Maai-mahiu take the left turn-off toward Narok along the B3 road. Some 15-20 km past Narok, the road reaches Ewaso Ngiro, where there is a crossroad. From here there are two possibilities for accessing the reserve:

Option A: this is the most frequent route, leading to the eastern sector of the park, where Keekorok Lodge is located. At Ewaso Ngiro, turn left to the C12. Some 40 km ahead the road divides. Both tracks lead to Masai Mara, but to different gates, and converge within the reserve at Keekorok Lodge. The one at the right is the main access, leading to Sekenani Main Gate. The left route reaches Ololamutiek Gate crossing a collapsed bridge (1998), but it is passable for a 4WD vehicle.

Option B: less used because of its worse conditions and mud abundance after the rains. At Ewaso Ngiro, go straight ahead along the B3 some 40 km more up to Ngorengore. At this town turn left to the C13. From here there are two further choices. The first one is driving straight to Oloololo Gate and Kichwa Tembo Camp, at the western side of the reserve. The second option is turning left at Aitong to the E177. This track leads to the eastern sector through Talek Gate.

From Naivasha:

If you depart from Naivasha you have two main routes for reaching Ewaso Ngiro, from where the two options mentioned under "from Nairobi" apply.

Option A: take the main A104 road heading for Nairobi. At Maai-mahiu, turn right to the B3 towards Narok and Ewaso Ngiro. This is the preferred access because it uses a stretch of the main highway.

Option B: just south of the lake, take the right turn-off to the C88. This track crosses the Mau Escarpment and offers beautiful sights, but becomes heavily muddy during the rains. It finally reaches the B3, which you will take right heading for Narok and Ewaso Ngiro.

From Nakuru:

The Nakuru case is similar to that mentioned for Naivasha. Basically there are two possibilities, one is more straightforward and scenic but more complicated, and the other one uses a stretch of the main A104 highway to Nairobi. Both routes reach Ewaso Ngiro, at the B3. From here the route is the same as in "from Nairobi".

Option A: take the main A104 highway to Naivasha. See "from Naivasha".

Option B: in Nakuru, take the road heading south to Njoro and Mau Narok across the Mau Escarpment. This track is a quagmire during the rains. The road finally leads to the B3 at Narok, then turn right to Ewaso Ngiro.

Think Indiana Jones - and you'll know what we're talking about! The Gedi Ruins are Kenya's Lost City lying in the depths of the great Arabuko Sokoke forest on the north coast of Kenya.

In-spite of extensive research, the history of Gedi and its peoples still remains an archaeological mystery. Once a great civilization with a population of over 2500 inhabitants, this complex Swahili settlement was built during the 13th century. The Gedi ruins include elaborate houses, mosques tombs and cemeteries.

Strangely, Gedi doesn't seem to be mentioned in any historic writings or local recorded history which has baffled historians as Gedi was a relatively complex civilization spanning a 45 acre settlement. There seems to have been no contact with the nearby settlement at Malindi.

Another mystery is that Gedi town appears to have been a trading outpost, yet this seems to be an unlikely situation with it's location being some distance from the sea and hidden deep in a forest. Under these circumstances, historians have asked who traded with Gedi, what did they trade and why aren't there records of Gedi in neighbouring settlements?

One of Gedi's greatest mysteries; however, is why the inhabitants of this interesting settlement suddenly abandoned it in the 17th century leaving it to ruination in the forest. With no signs of battle, plague, disturbance or any cause for this sudden desertion, this strange mystery is what visitors may ponder as they take a look around this mysterious ghost town in the indigenous jungles of East Africa.

Hidden under thick layers of ancient rainforest, local folklore has in the past regarded Gedi as a place of sinister spirits. After several hundred years, this secret, hidden city began to be uncovered by archaeologists the site in the 20th century. It was gazetted in 1948.

Visitors can now visit the Gedi ruins museum and guides are more than happy to take you through the ruins where you can see pillars and stone walls, ruined mosques and tombs. Ancient stone floors and deserted houses sit silently in this tropical environment w here questions linger in the air among the butterflies, birds, lizards, creepers and. wildflowers